Size: 18 inches (46 cm) wide x 15,7 inches (40 cm) tall; total height (with handles) - 23,2 inches (59 cm).
Yarn: Super Fine (3 ply) cotton yarn (1.7 oz/263 yds (240m)/ 50 g. per ball): 1 ball – yellow, rose, beige, lilac and dark lilac;
Light (8 ply) cotton yarn (3.5 oz/252 yds (230m)/ 100 g. per ball): 3 balls - light grey.
Hooks: size B/1 (2,25mm) hook, size D/3 (3,25 mm) hook and size G/6 (4 mm) hook.
This is my favorite crochet bag pattern. I made this summer bag some years ago and I truly love it. I had it with me during all my latest vacations. It's very convenient, quite big and really amazing. I can see how the most of women which I met at the beach usually look at this crochet bag. It's also not only great for the beach, but perfect to grab before you head out to the market or grocery store. It's very capacious and comfy.
I made a free pattern for it. It's not very easy and it's better if you have some crochet experience to try it but I'm pretty sure the result is worth the effort. It’s made of 100 % cotton yarn. I used light fingering (3 ply) cotton yarn for the flowers and DK (8 ply) cotton yarn for the body, the bottom and the handles.
The crochet bag free pattern includes a lot of photos in progress and charts along with the detailed description. The main point is a lining for this bag. I made the description for it too. You can find it in the last pages of the pattern.
Hope you enjoy this pattern and give it a try.
I’m continually in the process of adding new patterns, so watch for those in the coming weeks!
Materials:
You will need:
- Super Fine (3 ply) cotton yarn (1.7 oz/263 yds (240m)/ 50 g. per ball): 1 ball – yellow, rose, beige, lilac and dark lilac;
- Light (8 ply) cotton yarn (3.5 oz/252 yds (230m)/ 100 g. per ball): 3 balls - light grey;
- size B/1 (2,25mm) hook, size D/3 (3,25 mm) hook and size G/6 (4 mm) hook;
- 1,6-inch metal rings - 4;
- all-in-one light grey plastic zipper 20" (50cm) length;
- fabric: 42 x 17 - inch piece dark lilac gabardine;
50 x 18 - inch piece light orange gabardine;
80 x 18 - inch piece thick cotton fabric;
- sewing machine;
- sewing thread the same colors with the dark lilac fabric, the orange fabric and the light grey yarn;
- yarn needle;
- safety pin;
- some sewing pins;
- sewing chalk.
Crochet abbreviations
yo - yarn over hook
ch - chain
sp - space
st - stitch
sl st - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
tr - treble crochet
BPdc - back post double crochet
bo - bobble stitch
sk - skip
rep - repeat
Rnd - round
Gauge
1 motif = 2,4”/6 cm in width using size B/1 (2,25mm) hook.
Special stitches
Back post double crochet (BPdc): working back post stitch, insert hook from right to left around post of stitch on previous row.
Cluster (8 double and treble crochets together): yarn over hook [insert hook in the next chain-4 space, yarn over hook, pull through stitch, yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops 1 time] 2 times, *yarn over hook 2 times, [insert hook in the next chain-4 space, yarn over hook, pull through stitch, yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops, yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops] 2 times, repeat from * 1 time, yarn over hook [insert hook in the next chain-4 space, yarn over hook, pull through stitch, yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops 1 time] 2 times, yarn over hook, draw through all loops on hook.
Treble crochet in the same chain-4 sp and 2 double crochet in the next chain-4 space together: yarn over hook twice, [insert hook in the same chain-4 space, yarn over hook, pull through stitch, yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops, yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops], yarn over hook [insert hook in the next chain-4 space, yarn over hook, pull through stitch, yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops 1 time] 2 times, yarn over hook, draw through all loops on hook.
Bobble stitch (bo): (2 double crochets closed together): [yarn over hook, insert hook in 1 stitch, draw a loop, yarn over hook, draw through 2 loops] 2 times, yarn over hook, draw through the 3 loops on hook.
Motif (make 80: 20 motifs - beige yarn for Round4-5; 20 motifs - rose yarn; 20 - lilac yarn and 20 - dark lilac yarn).
Use size B/1 (2,25mm) hook
Yellow yarn
4 ch, join with sl st to form a ring.
Rnd1: 1 ch, work 5 sc in the ring, sl st to join.
Rnd2: 3 ch, work 13 dc in the ring, sl st to join.
Rnd3: 3 ch, * 2 BPdc (see Special stitches) in the next st, rep from *, 1 BPdc in the last st, sl st in the 2nd st from the beginning to join. Fasten off. (See chart and picture 1).
Rose, beige, lilac or dark lilac yarn
Rnd4: join yarn with a sl st at the last stitch of the previous rnd, *5 ch, sk 1 st, 1 sc in the next st, rep from * to the end.
Rnd5: 3 ch, 4 dc in the next ch-5 sp, 2 ch, 5 dc in the same ch-5 sp, * 5 dc in the next ch-5 sp, 2 ch, 5 dc in the same ch-5 sp, rep from *, sl st to join in the 3rd ch from the beginning. Fasten off (See chart and picture 2).
Make 80 motifs: 20 - rose, 20 - beige, 20 - lilac; 20 - dark lilac.
Motif joining (work round)
Grey yarn
Use size D/3 (3,25 mm) hook.
Rnd1: join yarn with a sl st at any of the ch-2 sp of the motif, * [4 ch, 1 sc in the next ch-2 sp] rep 5 times, 4 ch, 1 sc in the both: the next ch-2 sp and in any ch-2 sp of another one motif, rep from * 15 times (make a strip of 16 motifs), sl st in the first sl st of the rnd to join (See chart and picture 3).
A sequence of colors is following: [2 lilac motifs, 2 rose motifs, 2 dark lilac motifs, 2 beige motifs] 2 times.
Rnd2: sl st in the next st, 4 ch, tr in the same ch-4 sp and 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp together (see Special stitches), * 5 ch, sc in the next ch-4 sp, [4 ch, sc in the next ch-4 sp] 2 times, 5 ch, [2 dc in the next ch-4 sp, 2 tr in the next ch-4 sp, 2 tr in the next ch-4 sp, 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp] closed together (see Special stitches: Cluster( 8 double and treble crochets together)), rep from *, at the end of the round: [2 dc in the next ch-4 sp, 2 tr in the next ch-4 sp] closed together, 1 sl st in the 4th st from the beginning. Fasten off. (See chart and picture 4).
Repeat Rnd1-2 on the other side of the motif strip (see picture 4a).
Motif strips joining
The second strip.
Make Rnd1 in the same way as the first strip.
Rnd2 (joining round): sl st in the next st, 4 ch, tr in the same ch-4 sp and 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp together (see Special stitches), * 2 ch, sc in the ch-4 sp of the 1st motif strip (see chart 5 (red arrow) and picture 5a(1)), 2 ch, sc in the next ch-4 sp of the current motif strip, [2 ch, sc in the next ch-5 sp of the 1st motif strip, 2 ch, sc in the next ch-4 sp of the current motif strip] 2 times, 2 ch, sc in the next ch-4 sp of the 1st motif strip, 2 ch, [2 dc in the next ch-4 sp, 2 tr in the next ch-4 sp, 2 tr in the next ch-4 sp, 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp] closed together (see Special stitches: 8 double and treble crochets together), repeat from *, at the end of the round work: 2dc in the next ch-4 sp, 2 tr in the next ch-4 sp, sl st in the 4th st from the beginning. Fasten off. (See chart and picture 5 and 5a).
Make 3 more strips joining with each other.
Pay attention to the sequence of colors (assembly diagram and picture 6).
Bottom of the crochet bag
Use size G/6 (4 mm) hook for the bottom and work in 2 threads.
66 chains (12,8"/32,5 cm).
Rnd1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each ch to the end, 4 sc in the last ch, turn (continue work round on the opposite side), sc in each ch to the end, 3 sc in the last st, sl st to join in the 1st ch of the row.
Rnd2: 1 ch, sc in each of the next 65 st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 64 st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, sl st to join.
Rnd3: 1 ch, sc in each of the next 65 st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 64 st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st , 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, sl st to join.
Rnd4: 1 ch , sc in each of the next 66 st, 2 sc in the next st , 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 67 st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 2 st, sl st to join.
Rnd5: 1 ch, sc in each of the next 67 st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 67 st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, sl st to join.
Rnd6: 1 ch, sc in each of the next 69 st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 71 st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 3 st, sl st to join (see picture 7). Fasten off.
Iron the bottom and cut out a pattern of it (see the picture 7a).
Then make a joining round that is going to join the bottom and the body of the crochet bag you've made before. Use D/3 (3,25 mm) hook and work in 1 thread. Join yarn with a sl st in the middle of the bottom side. To find this stitch fold the bottom in a half lengthwise. You need the stitch on fold, join yarn at it .
Work round: 3 ch, dc in the 4th st from the hook, 1 ch, 1 sc in any ch sp of the lowest round of the bag body, 1 ch, bo (see Special stitches) in the same st of the bottom, dc in the next st of the bottom, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next ch sp of the bag body, 1 ch, sk 2 st of the bottom, dc in the next st of the bottom, bo in the next st of the bottom, [1 ch, 1 sc in the next ch sp of the bag body, 1 ch, bo in the same st of the bottom, dc in the next st of the bottom, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next ch sp of the bag body, 1 ch, sk 2 st of the bottom, dc in the next st of the bottom, bo in the next st of the bottom] 4 times, [1 ch, 1 sc in the next ch sp of the bag body, 1 ch, bo in the same st of the bottom, dc in the next st of the bottom, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next ch sp of the bag body, 1 ch, sk 3 st of the bottom, dc in the next st of the bottom, bo in the next st of the bottom] 6 times, [1 ch, 1 sc in the ch sp of the bag body, 1 ch, bo in the same st of the bottom, dc in the next stitch of the bottom, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next ch sp of the bag body, 1 ch, skip 2 st of the bottom, dc in the next st of the bottom, bo in the next st of the bottom] 9 times, [1 ch, 1 sc in the ch sp of the bag body, 1 ch, bo in the same st of the bottom, dc in the next st of the bottom, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next ch sp of the bag body, 1 ch, skip 3 st of the bottom, dc in the next st of the bottom, bo in the next stitch of the bottom] 5 times, [1 ch, 1 sc in the ch sp of the bag body, 1 ch, bo in the same st of the bottom, dc in the next st of the bottom, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next ch sp of the bag body, 1 ch, sk 2 st of the bottom, dc in the next st of the bottom, bo in the next st of the bottom] 6 times, 1 ch, 1 sc in the ch sp of the bag body, 1 ch, bo in the same st of the bottom, dc in the next st of the bottom, sl st in the 3rd ch from the beginning to join (see chart 8 and picture 8a). Fasten off.
Tab (make 4).
Use D/3 (3,25 mm) hook and work in 1 thread.
10 ch, turn.
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Row1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each ch to the end, turn.
Row2-14: rep Row1. Fasten off. (See picture 9).
The top of the bag
Join yarn with a sl st at the middle ch sp of the top side.
Fold the top of the bag in a half lengthwise to find the middle chain space. You need the chain spaces which are on the folds. Join yarn with a slip stitch at one of these chain spaces.
Rnd1: 3 ch, dc in current ch sp, 2 ch, 2 dc in the same ch sp, * 2 dc in the next ch sp, 2 ch, 2 dc in the same ch sp, rep from *, sl st to join in the 3rd ch from the beginning.
Rnd2: sl st in each of the next 3 st, * 3 ch, sc in the next ch-2 sp, rep from *, sl st in the 1st sl st of the rnd to join.
Rnd3: 1 ch, sc in each st to the end, sl st to join in the 1st ch of th rnd.Fasten off (see chart 10 and picture 10a).
Rnd 4-8: rep Rnd3.
Rnd9: 1 ch, sc in the next 32 st, 10 ch, sk 10 st, sc in each of the next 42 st, 10 ch, sk 10 st, sc in each of the next 64 st, 10 ch, sk 10 st, sc in each of the next 42 st, 10 ch, sk 10 st, sc in each of the next 32, sl st to join (we have made cuts for the tabs).
Rnd 10-16: rep Rnd3. Fasten off (see picture 11).
Then fold the top of the bag along the Rnd9 (the cuts), insert the hook between Rnd7 the Rnd8 from one side and between Rnd10 and Rnd11 to another side (see picture 12).
Yo, draw a loop, sk 1 st, insert hook in the next st between Rnd7 and Rnd8 from one side and between Rnd10 and Rnd11 to another side, yo, draw through the loop (see picture 13).
You should make a round of slip stitches, that will join two sides of the bag's top and sew the tabs to the cuts. Reaching the cut insert the tab (with the ring) into the cut and sew two sides of the bag with the tab using the row of slip stitches (see picture 14).
Make the same round of slip stitches one row lower to be tougher (see picture 15).
Lining
You need tree kinds of fabric for this bag. The first one is dark lilac gabardine (2). This fabric will be seen throught the crochet base of the bag that is why it has to go with the color of the bag. The second fabric is for lining, I choose light orange gabargine (1). And the last one fabric is for the strenthing the sides of the bad, I use thick 100 % cotton fabric in two layers (3).
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Cutting out the pattern
As far as finished measurements of the bag are 19 inches (48 cm) wide x 15,3 inches (39 cm) height, you have to cut out the following pieces:
- 1. dark lilac gabardine: a piece of 39" (99 cm) х 16,5" (42 cm) (seam allowances 0,6" (1,5 сm) are included), cut out the bottom using the pattern you've made before (seam allowances 0,6" (1,5 сm) should be included);
- 2. 100% thick cotton: 37,8" (96 cm) х 15,4" (39 cm) (without the seam allowances), cut out the bottom also without the seam allowances;
- 3. lining (light orange gabardine): a piece of 39" (99 cm) х 16,5" (42 cm) (seam allowances 0,6" (1,5 сm) are included), cut out the bottom (seam allowances 0,6" (1,5 сm) should be included), inside pockets: 10,2" (26 cm) х 6,7" (17 сm), 7,5" (19 cm) х 6,7" (17 сm) (seam allowances 0,6" (1,5 сm) are included).
Sew a cotton piece to the dark lilac gabardine, do the same with the bottom. Pay attention to the padding for the seam allowances (picture 16a).
Sew the side seam, sew the bottom.
You may strengthen the bottom in addition. I use some pieces of fabric for it, sew them in several layers and cut out a pattern of bottom.
Then sew this detail by hand to the wrong side of bag fabric base (dark lilac gabardine).
Sew the lining that you've made to the top of the crochet bag, it's better to stitch the pieces by hand before using the sew machine (see picture 19).
Sew the zipper, it's better to stitch it by hand to the bag before using the sew machine too (see picture 20).
Make also the lining of light orange gabardine: sew the inside pockets to the different sides of the lining, sew the side seam, sew the bottom and sew it to the bag (see picture 21).
Handle (make 2).
When you make crochet handles for the bag it's better to strengthen them additionally to keep crochet handles from stretching.
I usually make a fabric base for the handles. This base should be prepared before you start crocheting your handles. It can be narrow piece of fabric sewed with a sewing machine in 2 or 4 layers or any fabric tape. It's necessary that this fabric or tape is not be stretchy. I've prepared 4 narrow pieces of fabric sewed in 4 layers 18" (45cm) in length and 0,5" (1,2 cm) in width.
Then take light grey yarn, use D/3 (3,25 mm) hook and work in 1 thread.
18 ch join with sl st to form a ring.
Rnd1: 1 ch, sc in each st to the end.
Rnd2-8: repeat Rnd1. Fasten off.
With opposite side of crochet item foundation chain join yarn with a slip stitch in unused loop of the first chain, 1 ch, sc in each remaining ch across. Rep this rnd 7 times. Do not fasten off. We've made a lower part of the handle. Using the safety pin insert the narrow piece of fabric into the crochet item and put it in the middle of the piece of fabric (see picture 23).
Insert the crochet part of the handle with the piece of fabric into the metal ring, put the inner sides of the crochet item together, join two inner sides with a row of single crochets (work 9 single crochets). Then working round crochet the interior sides with the round of single crochets. Repeat this round 43 times (see picture 24).
One part of the handle is ready. Work the same to make another part of the handle.
Attach a sewing pin to the piece of fabric where you've finished crocheting the handle (make a marker for the point where you stopped crocheting). Then move the outer crochet part of the handle towards the metal ring and attach it with another sewing pin, because we don't need to work with it yet. Do not remove the first pin. Measure with the ruler 1 inch from the first pin towards the metal ring and draw a line with a sewing chalk. Make a seam with the sewing machine along this line. Then measure with the ruler 1 inch from the first pin to the opposite direction, draw a line with the sewing chalk, cut off the fabric along this line (see picture 26).
Work the same for another part of the handle. Then we have to make the middle part of the handle. Cut of the piece of fabric as it shown in the picture 27(1) (see also chart 28), join two parts of the handle, attach them with the sewing pin, make 2 seams with the sewing machine.
Then remove the pins, join the crochet parts of the handle and sew them to each other by hand with the sewing needle.
The first handle is ready. Make another one handle working the same way as the first one.
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